•  

    Click HERE to join our forum and participate in the discussions.

     

FNG Needs a little advice


R£D*R£APER

New member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Nov 10, 2019
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Denver, CO
Vehicle Year
1985
Vehicle
Bronco II
Suspension Style
4wd
Greetings,
I'm new to the WHOLE forum thing. My dad was an admin of a Ranger forum for years and I have seen the benefits so I figured it cant hurt to surround myself with people who know more than I do and have experienced exactly what I am going to. So for my first post please be forgiving if I am approaching this all wrong.. I'll get the hang of it. Or you can just verbally abuse me until I do.. Which best suits the group.

I just bought my bronco II from an old guy in the mountains who CLEARLY has very little contact with people that have a pulse. He took great care of it for the most part. I intend to really dig into it and make it what I've always wanted.

I have looked through some posts and searched for pertinent information.. Figured I might come upon some answers before I make myself look foolish.. No luck..

First thing I'd like some advice on... HOW DO I MAKE THE THING GET UP AND MOVE just a little bit quicker??? I have no issues getting up to speed but it just takes some time to get there... I'd love to see the ol' girl a little peppier.. i have been told to convert to fuel injection, bigger carb, better intake, headers, duraspark II conversion... But the person who has told me these things frightens me with his mechanical abilities... Sometimes hes a genius and then when he changes a tire he forgets to put the lugs on... Any ideas?

The next thing I'm looking into is bushings... I'd like to replace all bushings because of a near death experience I encountered in the bronco on my way out of the mountains.. I got home and found the bushing around the sway bar that sits in the body mounting bracket unseated and hanging from the sway bar.. I fixed it but it prompted me to look at all the bushings (the ones I could find, I'm no expert) and all of them are pretty trashed... I wouldnt expect anything less given the age.. I found some bushing kits but I dont know enough to know that itll work.. Are all bushing the same size from vehicle to vehicle? I wouldnt think so but what do I know...

Also, is there anything that can be done to kinda tighten up the squirrelly steering? It's not unlike any other older vehicle I have ever driven but itd be nice if I could get it a little tighter if you know what I mean...

Thanks in advance everybody and again, I apologize if my post does not meet the typical post expectations... I have never really done much work on vehicles or made a single post in a forum. So forgive the stupid questions and the format in which I post them.. This is the best way I think I'll be able to learn and in doing so I will develop an acceptable forum style..
 


alwaysFlOoReD

Blang - not bling
Forum Moderator
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
154
Reaction score
23
Points
18
Location
Red Deer, Canada
Vehicle Year
'91, '93, '98
Vehicle
Various
Engine Size
4.0, 4.0, 4.6
Suspension Style
4wd
Welcome aboard!
We are a pretty relaxed crew and try not to make fun of newbs....we've all been there.

First thing is to look at the steering and brakes. Get a friend in the truck and he can slowly turn the steering wheel back and forth while you are on your back looking up at the steering components. Your are looking for parts that are not moving synchronized. For example, the tie rod joint might be loose, you would see the arm move and then slightly later the steering knuckle would move. There should be NO slack between any moving part.
Next up is the steering column. The steering box is in between the shaft on top and the pitman arm below. Again there should be no perceptible difference in movement between the two. When one moves the other should move at the exact same time. In the shaft itself there is a joint. Most likely a "rag-joint" or could be a u-joint. Again no difference in movement above an below. It is hidden behind a plastic cover above the steering box.

Balljoints; put the axles on jack-stands and put a flat head shovel under the tire. You want to apply pressure up and at the same time wiggle the bottom of the tire in and out sideways. Look at the top and bottom of the knuckle where the axle beam connects. That is where the balljoints are located. Again no movement between parts should be seen.

Bearings; Next place yourself at the tire, kneeling or sitting. Put your hands at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and try to force the top and bottom in and out.....should be no movement.

Bushings;
-front sway bar end links, sway bar to frame
-axle beam to frame
- radius arm to frame...close look at passenger side, the cat likes to cook them.
-Rear leafspring eye
-Upper and lower leafspring shackles

Drive axle joints; inside the beams are the drive axles. One on drivers side, 2 on passenger. A hand on either side of the u-joint apply a twisting motion back and forth. No movement should be felt or seen.

Drive shaft joints; same as above. Two on front shaft, 2 or 3 on back. There are two types on the rear shaft. A CV style (I'm unfamiliar) and a double cardan style. The double cardan style is 2 u-joints joined by a ball and socket. Use twisting for joints and push/pull sideways for the ball and socket.

I've heard good things about using a non-feedback carb and duraspark. I've not done it myself....

There are 8 or 10 body bushings that probably should be replaced. If you want a body lift to clear big tires now is the time to do that. 30" tires are fine without a body lift. Can probably get away with 31". I would personally use 29" with 3.73 gearing. 31" with 4.10.

PS: I'm not a mechanic, just an enthusiast. So there are most probably stuff I don't know or forgot.

Good luck,
Richard
 
Last edited:

R£D*R£APER

New member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Nov 10, 2019
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Denver, CO
Vehicle Year
1985
Vehicle
Bronco II
Suspension Style
4wd
Thanks floored! Much appreciated.. Is there only 2 bolts on each side that mount the body to the frame? Also I have an open hole coming out of the side of the engine that looks as though there was supposed to be a pipe attached to it at one point.. Tried finding it in the chiltons but no luck.. Where would be the best place to post the question and a picture to get some help identifying it and what I should if anything to remedy it.. I'm thinking I'm missing part of the stock intake and that there was once a pipe coming from the intake to this hole but I'm not sure... Thanks for your help sir..
 

alwaysFlOoReD

Blang - not bling
Forum Moderator
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
154
Reaction score
23
Points
18
Location
Red Deer, Canada
Vehicle Year
'91, '93, '98
Vehicle
Various
Engine Size
4.0, 4.0, 4.6
Suspension Style
4wd
Figure out an appropriate build log thread title and I'll change the title on this thread so you can just continue posting here. Its is very helpful in the long term if you have a build log thread for when you can't remember exactly what you did to your b2 two years later.
So just continue posting questions here and post your pics here too.
 

R£D*R£APER

New member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Nov 10, 2019
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Denver, CO
Vehicle Year
1985
Vehicle
Bronco II
Suspension Style
4wd
Good afternoon gentlemen, (and ladies, I am assuming there are some among the crowd)

I have noticed a couple small leaks since I purchased my B2... I am looking for some help as I am no mechanic. First I'd like somebody to help me identify what exactly it is that's leaking if possible.. AND what level of difficulty or obstacles that might exist in order to rectify the leaks.. First is the front end.. I'll post about the rear in it's own post.

Seems to be where the oil pan ends and where the tranny begins. Take a look at the pictures and see if you can maybe identify what's going on.. I tried to paint the picture as best as I could..

This first picture is mostly so you could see where I am getting the close up from in relation to the oil pan... Just because I know I am not the best at describing this.14857

This is the close up...14858

It seems to be oil from the engine but then again I dont know what type of fluid is in the tranny... I know that sounds ridiculous but I have tried to find a dipstick to check and have had no luck... Do they share the same fluid? Is that even more ridiculous? :unsure:

Any feedback on the leak is much appreciated... Any info on where I might find the spot I am supposed to check/fill the tranny is also very much appreciated.. I am a novice obviously but I prefer not to ask stupid questions so believe me I'm not wasting your time not having looked for it myself..

Thanks guys!
 

R£D*R£APER

New member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Nov 10, 2019
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Denver, CO
Vehicle Year
1985
Vehicle
Bronco II
Suspension Style
4wd
Leaking from my rear...
At first I thought it was coming from the rear differential cover until I climbed under and got a close look... It appears to be coming from where the drive shaft meets up with it.. Any ideas on what is going on and what needs to be replaced or resealed? 14859148601486114862
Again any input is helpful! What it is and what the job to fix entails would be much appreciated..

Thanks!
 

alwaysFlOoReD

Blang - not bling
Forum Moderator
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
154
Reaction score
23
Points
18
Location
Red Deer, Canada
Vehicle Year
'91, '93, '98
Vehicle
Various
Engine Size
4.0, 4.0, 4.6
Suspension Style
4wd
A manual transmission does not have a dipstick. I'm actually not sure if there are pipe plugs on the side of the case for filling and emptying. That is the norm on older cast iron transmissions. Yours is an aluminum case "m5od-r" and uses ATF, I believe "mercon". There should be something in the manual that specifies which particular type of fluid or try your Google-fu.

I just posted and answer to the same question about leaks yesterday, I don't remember to whom it was directed. A quick search should find it.

The rear is a front pinion seal. I will post a how to later after work.
 

R£D*R£APER

New member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Nov 10, 2019
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Denver, CO
Vehicle Year
1985
Vehicle
Bronco II
Suspension Style
4wd
Dont mean to bombard the forum crew with questions but this one is something is quite pressing.. I still have to get my emissions done and have a feeling this missing hose may affect the results..

It appears there was a hose at one point going from the intake to this open pipe down lower that looks like its comes from a place that has something to do with exhaust..

Here is the picture that shows where I THINK one end of a hose is supposed to be...14863
This picture is where I believe the other end may have gone...
14864

Anybody know if I'm correct? What is the purpose of this connection? And if so what do I need to replace it? I'm guessing based on where the pipe is coming from it probably gets hot so a rubber hose wont be a good idea..

Thanks in advance everybody.. Eventually these dumb questions will become wiser more reasonable questions...

Have a good night..
 

R£D*R£APER

New member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Nov 10, 2019
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Denver, CO
Vehicle Year
1985
Vehicle
Bronco II
Suspension Style
4wd
A manual transmission does not have a dipstick. I'm actually not sure if there are pipe plugs on the side of the case for filling and emptying. That is the norm on older cast iron transmissions. Yours is an aluminum case "m5od-r" and uses ATF, I believe "mercon". There should be something in the manual that specifies which particular type of fluid or try your Google-fu.

I just posted and answer to the same question about leaks yesterday, I don't remember to whom it was directed. A quick search should find it.

The rear is a front pinion seal. I will post a how to later after work.
The post yesterday was probably me... But I added pictures with the hope it would help identify a definitive gasket/seal.. Thanks again floored.. I appreciate your help and patience with my novice questions..

I didn't think manual transmissions had a dipstick in general but my 1980 saab had a place under the hood where you could access a dipstick or maybe it was just a hole.. But that's how you'd have to fill the "gearbox oil" as it was explained in the Haynes..
 

alwaysFlOoReD

Blang - not bling
Forum Moderator
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
154
Reaction score
23
Points
18
Location
Red Deer, Canada
Vehicle Year
'91, '93, '98
Vehicle
Various
Engine Size
4.0, 4.0, 4.6
Suspension Style
4wd
If the top pic is of the air filter housing and the hole is about 1.5" diameter and the other hole at the exhaust manifold is the same diameter then it should be connected by a hose. The purpose is to pre-heat the incoming air so the engine warms up quicker from a cold start. Try an auto parts place for some generic hose or maybe the auto wrecker. At an autowreckers you would also be able to see how its hooked up and take pics of the vacuum lines that operate the valve that controls the preheated air. Also, its not a critical component, you can drive without it.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

Blang - not bling
Forum Moderator
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
154
Reaction score
23
Points
18
Location
Red Deer, Canada
Vehicle Year
'91, '93, '98
Vehicle
Various
Engine Size
4.0, 4.0, 4.6
Suspension Style
4wd
So, that hose may need to be there to pass emissions, might as well fix it.

The pinion seal fix....
First push up and down on the shaft. Your are looking to see if there is bearing movement inside the rear end. There should be none. If there is that's the cause of the seal leaking. Cheapest fix and probably the easiest is to buy a used rear end with the same gear ratio (if you have 4x4, not as important if 2wd) and swap it out.
If bearing is good;
Mark the orientation of all the parts that are going to come off. Use a file to make some marks.
Drop the drive shaft.
Count the threads in front of the nut. This is important. Also use a tri-square and measure from the end of the shaft to the edge of the nut. The nut needs to be put back on in as close to the original position as possible.
Undo the nut. It is put on with lots of torque so will be very hard to undo. (If it comes off easy that's a bad sign. Probably best to tighten it back up and swap in a new rear axle.)
Next pull off the u-joint holder. (Sorry, the proper name escapes me) there might be an oil slinger behind that, look close at how it is oriented. Take a pic if your memory is as good as mine.
Now the seal. A seal puller is best. Or carefully drive a screw into the metal part of the seal and use a hammer to pull the screw and hopefully the seal with it.
Clean the area.
Take the new seal and hold it in place and using a hammer carefully tap around the edge to start to into place. I always have trouble with this, either the hole or the new seal seems to be oval and it keeps popping out at the opposite end of where you hammer down. Be patient or go buy the right tool; a seal driver.
Install everything that you took off. The pinion nut is torqued to something like 225 ftlbs. If you don't have the proper measurement then that is why you counted threads and took measurements. Apply some "locktight" to the threads. Get the nut back to where it was and don't be afraid of putting your whole body weight on the end of the ratchet. Your body weight isn't going to exceed the torque value needed.
Good luck.
PS; I'm not a mechanic and you do the work to your own truck taking all responsibilities for whatever happens.
 

R£D*R£APER

New member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Nov 10, 2019
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Denver, CO
Vehicle Year
1985
Vehicle
Bronco II
Suspension Style
4wd
Dam floored... You're not a mechanic? You'd never guess with all the knowledge you have. Thank you again sir.. I appreciate you taking the time to go over this for me.. And no worries.. I am not the type to try and hold somebody responsible for my failure in a project they were just trying to help with.. I will probably not get to this anytime soon but I will let you know how it goes when I do. You'll probably see a post/posts before then.. Things that I might be able to get to sooner.. Have a good weekend sir!
 

alwaysFlOoReD

Blang - not bling
Forum Moderator
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
154
Reaction score
23
Points
18
Location
Red Deer, Canada
Vehicle Year
'91, '93, '98
Vehicle
Various
Engine Size
4.0, 4.0, 4.6
Suspension Style
4wd
I've been playing with vehicles since I was 16. I'm 57. Even I absorb knowledge over the long term, especially when its learned the hard way. Things are so much easier now with the internet.
Good to see you doing the research, and when the time and knowledge is there you can also share your knowledge....pay it forward.
 

Top